Indian tequila: one man’s quest to perfect a national spirit

What happens when you try making tequila, Mexico’s national drink, in India? Alex Travelli meets Desmond Nazareth, a 62-year-old from Mumbai who has spent the past 20 years working on perfecting an Indian equivalent to tequila and other mezcals — writing in 1843 Magazine, he downs a glass or two and finds out if it tastes like the real thing.